Takoradi: Like a Circle in a Spiral

Some people were really surprised this morning to wake up – no, not to their alarms, and even not to dean Rita’s loud voice, but to the beat of the African drums. Random, right? Well, there was a bunch of drummers and dancers on the embankment by the ship, and they were just playing and dancing…

A COMET???

HOLY MOTHER OF GOD, this thing just went all the way across the sky and faded into darkness, as if someone switched off the light inside of it.

Almost there – Takoradi

Crickets or cicadas? That is the question. Not that hearing a cricket or a cicada is normal aboard a ship that is somewhere in the Atlantic ocean on its way to Ghana, but on the other hand, still curious. These things sing in the morning and at night and they definitely add up to our…

News From the Helm, Side Issue

News number one, being the main news: my dear friend and classmate Ilona took a leap of faith (just like I did half a year ago), and on the other side the SAS Presidential scholarship awaited her. So yes, Ilona is going on the Spring 2014 voyage (and I’m already damn jealous). What can I…

To Ghana: A Very Atlantic Birthday

I haven’t been a birthday person for a while. Probably since my middle school friends burnt a carpet in our living-room on my birthday. Or tried to hook me up with a guy from our class whom I completely disliked. Or just started inviting side people. Or expected you to put up a “table”. Or…

Out of the Desert

05.10 Woken up at 6:30 am, the sunrise time. It’s so strange to see everything lighting up after that absolute darkness of the night. The camels still grumbling, but now I can see their contours, and the hills, and the patterns of the dunes, clearer and clearer. The sky sort of stretched out, throwing on…

Into the Desert

04.10, sometime after midnight I’m lying on a dune, doing a butterfly thing with my arms. Up and down, up and down. The sand is softer than silk on my bare skin, and it cools and warms as my arms move. It’s completely dark, that perfect darkness of solitude that a city inhabitant can only…

Marrakech: Arabian Nights Alive

That was a hell of a day, I tell you! First, it took forever for the ship to be cleared; then we caught a taxi to the train station, and missed a train to Marrakech by a few minutes because the ticket machine won’t take the money. So we had to kill two hours at…

Cadiz and off to Morocco

Highlights of the day: went swimming. Saw cats. Cadiz – the old city – is small, very small. If you walk fast you can probably circle it in forty minutes. There are a few beaches, the biggest one located next to the old city.